A Postcard From... Asturias Pt. 3
The last few days in Asturias
Fully on the Primitivo, we have spent our days with much more climbing, mixed weather, and new friends. The five of us have fully stuck together, but new faces have become familiar at albergues and along the trail during the day. The last few days in Asturias were dealt with handling injuries, dealing with bad weather, and, as always, a whole lot of fun in between.
Catch up on Asturias Pt. 1 and Asturias Pt. 2 or the first couple weeks of the Camino here!
Camino Pt 3: Asturias
190 miles | 8,429 meters (27,732 feet) of gain | 12 days
Comillas - La Franca - Llanes - San Esteban de Leces - Priesca - Pola de Siero - Oviedo - Grado - Salas - Tineo - Hospitales - Berducedo - Castro
Salas - Tineo - 15 miles
Our albergue had an absolutely delicious breakfast of pancakes and berries, lovingly made by the owner—a real treat compared to the usual white bread and toast. The day began with another so-called “big climb,” which thankfully wasn’t too bad, but unfortunately I started to have a tendon or something in the side of my right calf start to seize up pretty bad. I started to take it slow, hoping it would loosen up as I warmed up, and for a while, I managed to keep a normal pace - at least until we stopped for lunch.
Arriving in towns is always an adventure since we usually go in “blind.” The Buen Camino app gives us some idea of the amenities available, but a “grocery store” can range from a full supermarket to a tiny convenience shop with random odds and ends. Today, it was the latter. We pieced together a meal from what we could find and ate on a random bench by the road. It was a nice little break—except for my calf. Stopping seemed to make it seize up even more, and when we started walking again, I could barely move.
The afternoon was, to put it mildly, rough. Sharp pains shot up my leg with every step, and the trail wasn’t helping—muddy and slippery at points, it was far from forgiving. I was not a happy camper.
The afternoon was, to put it mildly, rough. Sharp pains shooting up my leg every other step combined with navigating a muddy and slippery trail was not a great combination. I was not that happiest camper. Earlier that day we opted to skip the public albergue in town as it was first come first served and we wouldn’t arrive in time. It also didn’t look overly inviting, so we opted for an albergue in the bottom of a hotel instead. This turned out to be one of our best decisions as the albergue had a sauna and steam room we were able to use.
The moment we checked in, all five of us dropped our bags and made a beeline for the sauna. It was only open for two hours that evening, and we made sure to soak up every minute. The heat worked wonders on my calf—by the time we finished, I could walk without any pain, which felt like a small miracle after the day I’d had.
Unfortunately, the day’s high note took a slight turn during dinner, which was one of the worst meals we’ve had on the Camino. Still, we laughed about it and didn’t let it ruin our spirits. I was just grateful my bad afternoon had turned around. As I went to bed, I crossed my fingers the calf issue wouldn’t return the next day—because if it did, I’d have to consider taking a bus to the next location (more of mental challenge for me than a physical one).
Tineo - Hospitales - 16 miles
The day started with great news: no pain in my calf. I stretched thoroughly just to be safe, but I felt optimistic (and relieved) that I wouldn’t need to take the bus to the next stop. Our albergue was conveniently close to a grocery store, so we headed there first thing to gather food for the day. Stepping outside, we quickly realized it was going to be a wet and cold one. As soon as we returned, we changed into warmer, longer layers to brace for the weather.
Checkout wasn’t until 9 AM, but the albergue had a cozy seating area outside the sleeping area where we could linger and eat breakfast. We took full advantage, reveling in the warmth, and didn’t head out until around 11 AM. The morning climb out of town promised scenic views, but instead, we were met with dense fog and limited visibility.
Early in the day, we decided to take a detour to visit an old church we’d heard about. When we arrived, we dropped our bags and explored the overgrown ruins, climbing through rubble and vines. The church itself was locked, which of course made it the boys’ mission to find a way inside. We ended up spending about two hours there, soaking in the atmosphere and enjoying a long “lunch” break before continuing on.
The rest of the day was a slog. We were grateful to have reserved our beds in advance because we didn’t arrive until almost 7 PM. Despite trickling in at different times, we were just in time for dinner—which turned out to be the largest pilgrim meal of the Camino so far. After a long, wet day, we were happy to have a warm meal right away and the boys were particularly thrilled to help themselves to second servings - not often offered on the Camino.
The albergue itself wasn’t large, but it had plenty to entertain us. There were games in the main room and even a mini-golf course outside. Armed with a wedge and a putter, the boys and I set up our own little competition. Erik, who plays golf back home, landed an impressive chip shot straight into the hole, earning him a well-deserved win. I came in second, leaving the Europeans in the dust (it was clear they don’t play much golf).
As the fog rolled back in, we headed inside to warm up. Erik and I joined Ana and another pilgrim we’d met a few days ago for a game of Scrabble. Let’s just say the other man absolutely crushed us.
Luck was on our side again that night, as we had a private bunk room with its own bathroom and shower. We all cozied up, hoping that our soaked clothes and shoes would manage to dry before the next day’s journey.
Hospitales - Berducedo - 15 miles
The Primitivo route splits into two paths: a high road and a low road. The high road, known as “Hospitales,” passes three medieval pilgrim hostels at the top of a climb and is famed for its gorgeous views—but only in good weather. Regardless of the forecast, we were determined to take the high road, which is why we had chosen our albergue at the base of the climb the night before.
The day began with a short but steep climb. Once we reached the top, the trail leveled out into flat, grassy terrain dotted with cows and plenty of mud. Unfortunately, the weather was freezing, and we found ourselves walking through a thick misty cloud. While it wasn’t technically raining, the moisture clung to everything, soaking us to the bone.
At the summit, the group naturally split up. The boys went ahead, leaving Ana and me to enjoy a quiet girls' morning. With no views to admire, we kept our heads down, pushing through the damp mist until lunchtime. At the trail’s end, we reunited with Erik, found a bench, and had a quick bite before starting the descent. Joachim and Fritz had gone on ahead, so the three of us spent the afternoon walking together.
Not even a mile into the descent, the weather took a turn for the better. We broke through the clouds to stunning views and warmer temperatures, which made the rest of the day much more enjoyable.
Joachim had secured beds for us at an albergue, so we didn’t need to rush to “town”—essentially a road with a small albergue, an old church, and a hybrid bar-convenience store. It had been a while since we stayed in a large dorm-style albergue with 20+ bunks crammed into one room, but the familiar faces of fellow pilgrims made it fun to pile in with everyone. With no kitchen or restaurant in town, we were fortunate to eat dinner at the albergue, basking in the warm sun - a good way to finally warm up after the freezing day.
As usual, the Euros were on, so after dinner the five of us joined the locals and other pilgrims at the small bar to watch the game. Everyone was piled in, and with so many pilgrims from all over, it was fun to see some friendly competition as we were with people cheering for both teams.
Berducedo - Castro - 20 Miles
Surprise, surprise—we were the last ones out of the albergue again. At least we were able to enjoy breakfast at the outdoor tables before setting off into what promised to be a beautiful, warm day. The trail started with an uphill climb, which set the tone for the day: big inclines followed by steep declines, rinse and repeat.
The morning offered incredible views, giving us a sense of what the Hospitales route might have looked like had we experienced clear weather the day before. At the highest point, we reached a breathtaking lookout over a river. Ana and I began the descent just ahead of the boys, assuming they’d catch up soon, but after about ten minutes, they were nowhere to be seen.
Reaching the bottom, we arrived at a dam with a scenic lookout—a truly stunning spot. After crossing, we began another long uphill climb, and about 40 minutes in, we spotted the boys in the distance, still lingering by the dam. With absolutely no clue how they fell so far behind, we continued on our merry way - enjoying our girl’s day to the fullest.
Our destination for the night was a small albergue with no town nearby, so we stopped for a treat in the last village before the final stretch. Ice cream and pastries were in order—because why not? As we were leaving, we ran into our Scrabble friend from a few nights ago, who asked where the boys were. Our answer? “Probably throwing rocks and swimming in the reservoir somewhere behind us.”
When Ana and I arrived at the albergue, we were placed in a bunk room by ourselves with spare beds. After showering, we spent the afternoon relaxing in the backyard sun, reading and savoring the peace and quiet. About an hour and a half later, the boys finally showed up, confirming they had, in fact, “spent the afternoon throwing rocks and swimming in the reservoir.” Called it.
Dinner was served at the albergue, which we followed up with some evening yoga outside in the fading sunlight. Afterward, we headed inside to play cards and watch the Euros. Although the boys were assigned a different room, when it came time to sleep, Ana and I still had empty beds in our room, so they gathered their things and piled in our room for the evening. It’s not like we spend every other night in the same room together, but god forbid we be separated at this point.
Asturias was filled with new adventures. Leaving the Norte behind and joining the Primitivo was the change of scenery we all needed. Everyday our friendships grow closer, goodbye are the days of “small talk” and getting to know everyone on a deeper level is just such a special thing. I am so glad to have formed our friend group when we did so we could spend the second half of the Camino together.
Love your stories. I have been tracking your journey on the map so I can see where you are on your trip. What a wonderful adventure!